A Russian banya

We took the jitney to the Rechnoy Vokzal Metro station where we met Sergey Ivanovich at noon. It was a quiet ride as he doesn’t speak English and our Russian is practically non-existent. Outside the city, the traffic was really backed up so he made a U-turn and took an alternate route. We went through some pretty woods and eventually came to his and Olga’s home in Razdolnoe.

They moved into this house just 3 weeks ago. Their neighbors, Svetlana and Sergey Sergeyovich, have a banya and invited us to come and use it with them. Olga explained that you should not do a banya on an empty stomach so she set out a “few” things so that we’d be prepared: fresh sliced tomatoes atop thin slices of batter-coated, sauteed eggplant; sliced tongue; julienned carrot-raisins-bean salad; chopped egg-pineapple-cheese salad; tomato-pepper-garlic salsa; grapes, pears and apples; rye and white breads; raspberry juice; wine and vodka. As we were finishing this not-so-small meal, Svetlana and Sergei’s daughter Kate arrived to say that the banya was not quite ready but would be soon. Svetlana came a little later to say all was prepared.


Olga gathered towels and wraps and slippers for the banya and off we went. The banya house consisted of six separate spaces: an entry area where outside shoes were left and slippers were donned; the summer kitchen with water heaters and pumps and other equipment to run the banya; a cellar under the kitchen where potatoes and other vegetables from their garden are stored; a lounge outside the banya room with chairs, a table, a wet bar, refrigerator, cabinets for dishes and glasses, etc; a shower area adjoining the banya; and, the banya room with a wood-fired stove.

Svetlana explained that we’d go into the hot room three times. Each time we emerged we could cool off with a shower and then relax in the lounge area.
During this time we should refresh ourselves with “zakusky” which are hor d’œuvres. These included garlic sausages, ham, cheese, tomatoes and peppers grown in their garden and greenhouse, mushrooms that Sevtlana had gathered from the forest, bread, and apples. There was Russian champagne, beer (including non-alchoholic,) vodka, and tea.


As we separated into two rooms to change our clothes, Svetlana presented us with banya hats. These are felt and are worn in the hot room to protect your head from the intense heat and steam.












The banya is a lovely room. The stove with rocks atop it, is on the right near the door. There are three levels of seats. A lower one serves as a step to the highest one which runs the length of the back wall. A mid-level bench is on the wall facing the stove. These are birch benches and emit their own heat.



The first two times in the hot room we all went in together. When we needed to cool down we sat in the lounge area, sipped tea, and ate a little. After the 2nd time in, we used the shower to cool down before going to the lounge.


The third time in the hot room, Svetlana, Olga, and I went first. Svetlana brought out the oak switches. She had been soaking these so they were soft and aromatic. She doused them with more water and plunged them up and down in a wooden tub. After that, she shook off the excess water onto the rocks on the banya stove. Steam increased the humidity and heat of the room. Because I was the novice, Svetlana rubbed my body with the oak leaves to stimulate my circulation. This being accomplished, a little more banya time was followed by a cool shower and then back in the banya. Experienced banya users do their own switching. As we emerged for our rest and tea, the fellows took their turn. What an experience! Bob is figuring out where a banya can be built at our lake place in Wisconsin.



When we had had a little more to eat and had some more tea, we changed into our street clothes. On the way back to the house we stopped at Svetlana’s and Sergey’s greenhouse. There was a huge pile of cabbage. There were pepper, cucumber, and tomato plants still bearing fruit even though the outdoor gardens were covered with snow. Svetlana gave us canned and fresh vegetables from their garden.








Back in the house, we met S&S’s four-year old son, Max. Svetlana then served a ravioli/pelmeni type stuffed pasta from Uzbekistan called “manty.” Of course, there was much other food too including a chocolate layer cake. By the time we had consumed all this wonderful fare, it was well into the evening.


Sergey Ivanovich drove us all the way to Akademgorodok—close to an hour-long trip. It was more than he needed to do but we were grateful not to have to wait for a jitney to get us home—especially since we were returning with much more than we had gone with: banya hats, vodka glasses, canned and fresh vegetables, Uzbeki bread, hats from Olga for me, and a large jar of tomato, pepper, and garlic salsa that Olga had made.

What a memorable day with our new Siberian friends!